By Joe Yonan Food and Dining Editor December 22

One of the most common questions I get is, What food do you miss most?

As a relatively new vegetarian, and one who believes strongly that vegetables should be celebrated, not apologized for, I usually resist answering. Or I demur by saying something like, I cant really think of anything.

The truth is, there is something. I often miss sushi. I know I can get plenty of vegetarian sushi, but its almost exclusively in the form of maki rolls, with little julienne carrots or avocado or cucumber, or sometimes woo-hoo! all three. Yawn.

What I miss is nigiri, the style of sushi that focuses on the ethereal, elegant, delectable combination of a single, perfect piece of fish and vinegared rice beneath it, perhaps with a punch of wasabi (or what passes for it) and a little dab of soy sauce, along with some other minimal garnish, if any. Its not that I want the tuna or the yellowtail or the mackerel per se, but very few Japanese restaurants in the District, Kaz Sushi Bistro is a rare exception seem to apply those same principles to, say, a mushroom.

Id never really thought to take matters into my own hands, literally, until the book A Visual Guide to Sushi-Making at Home crossed my desk. The nigiri chapter includes such stunners as marinated roasted red bell pepper, looking for all the world like ruby red tuna, topped with a bright green slice of jalapeo. It made my mouth water, and not just for trompe loeil effects, either. My other favorite was a grilled royal trumpet mushroom slice, scored with a diamond pattern and draped just so over a perfectly formed, oblong mound of rice.

The books authors, Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani, walk readers through all the crucial steps in expert sushi making, including how to properly cook rice, mix it with vinegar (fanning all the while) and in a two-page spread gently form it into those signature bricks.

Ive streamlined those instructions in the accompanying recipe, but the upshot for me is this: When I make it myself, theres nothing left to miss. At some point perhaps for a New Years Eve party I might even share.

Here is the original post:
Weeknight Vegetarian: Giving vegetables the nigiri treatment