Despite the Plazas new policy, the head waiter, Denis Courtiade, said he had rapidly procured and served steak tartare to an American diner who insisted on it, adding: I suspected we might be on camera.

Vegetarian food is gaining acceptance in France as health and environmental concerns turn the French away from red meat. Meat consumption fell by 15 per cent between 2003 and 2010, according to Crdoc, an organisation that monitors consumer and lifestyle trends.

Vegetarians are now estimated to account for three to five per cent of the population, or as many as 3.3 million, mostly urban professionals, according to Manon Dupr of the market research company Mintel.

Other estimates are somewhat lower, at about two percent, but Ms Dupr said: Vegetarian food is becoming more attractive to French consumers even if the UK market is still much bigger.

The number of vegetarians and vegans in Britain is estimated at up to 12 per cent of the population, or more than 7.5 million, according to Mintel.

The French tend to be more firmly rooted in traditional gastronomy and vegan meals are banned in school canteens. However, food companies are starting to offer more vegetarian ready-meals and top chefs are rethinking their menus.

Laurent Delarbre of the celebrated Tour dArgent in Paris said: Weve added vegetable-based, gluten- and nut-free options to our menus because we get an average of three requests a week for these kind of dishes.

Jol Robuchon, who like Mr Ducasse operates restaurants around the world, said: The cuisine of the next ten years will be vegetarian.

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France develops taste for vegetarian cuisine