By Paul Stephen, Staff Writer

Photo: Paul Stephen /San Antonio Express-News

EverGreen Organic Restaurant's hamburger may tip the scales at $19, but it's made with organic, grass-fed beef.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant's hamburger may tip the scales at $19, but it's made with organic, grass-fed beef.

The house salad at EverGreen Organic Restaurant is topped with a bright berry-based dressing.

The house salad at EverGreen Organic Restaurant is topped with a bright berry-based dressing.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant namesake EverGreen smoothie is made with fruits and leafy green vegetables.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant namesake EverGreen smoothie is made with fruits and leafy green vegetables.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant is located at 523 Med Court, Suite 102, in Stone Oak.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant is located at 523 Med Court, Suite 102, in Stone Oak.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant's calzones make a satisfying appetizer filled with a savory meat and onion sauce.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant's calzones make a satisfying appetizer filled with a savory meat and onion sauce.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant's calzones make a satisfying appetizer filled with a savory meat and onion sauce.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant's calzones make a satisfying appetizer filled with a savory meat and onion sauce.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant's pizzas are available in configurations to please both vegans and meat eaters. This is the vegan Margherita option topped with a better-than-average cheese alternative.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant's pizzas are available in configurations to please both vegans and meat eaters. This is the vegan Margherita option topped with a better-than-average cheese alternative.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant is located at 523 Med Court Suite 102.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant is located at 523 Med Court Suite 102.

The house salad at EverGreen Organic Restaurant is topped with a bright berry-based dressing.

The house salad at EverGreen Organic Restaurant is topped with a bright berry-based dressing.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant's hamburger may tip the scales at $19, but it's made with organic, grass-fed beef.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant's hamburger may tip the scales at $19, but it's made with organic, grass-fed beef.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant is located at 523 Med Court, Suite 102.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant is located at 523 Med Court, Suite 102.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant is located at 523 Med Court, Suite 102, in Stone Oak.

EverGreen Organic Restaurant is located at 523 Med Court, Suite 102, in Stone Oak.

Review: Grass-fed, vegan goodness grows in Stone Oak

Fortunately for all of our collectively expanding waistlines, food thats good for you is, mercifully, increasingly good to actually eat. And its wholesomeness that shines above all else at EverGreen Organic Restaurant.

The spot opened in late May with a health-conscious menu of smoothies, salads, sandwiches and sides. Oh, and lets not forget the pizza, an option available in both vegan and carnivoristic incarnations.

A recent visit to the weeks-old venture found the dining room empty during lunch hours and oddly devoid of either cooking noises or background music. But the lack of distractions resulted in attentive service and an enthusiastic explanation of the menu complete with a sneak peek of things to come as the shop gets up to speed in the coming weeks.

Fast facts: EverGreen is located in the former home of Extreme Pita, but the space has received a significant makeover with stylish lighting, a sleek front counter and a funky Instagram-friendly black surface on the tables.

On the menu: Lets start at the place many diners are likely to begin: grousing about the prices. EverGreen may have set a record (were still doing our research) with a cheeseburger bearing an MSRP sticker price of $19. Want an order of lasagna instead? Get ready to drop $26. But as the saying goes, you get what you pay for.

In this case, youre buying into the belief that sustainably raised, organic and grass-fed meats are worth the higher price tag. And that lasagna? Its a generous portion (made with that same top-dollar beef) billed as a feast for two. Same goes for the salmon platter at $29.

As for the burger, its a generous 8-ounce patty atop a toasted sesame bun. Lettuce, tomato, cheese. You get the idea. And you know what? If you took a bite before enduring that jolt of sticker shock, theres a possibility youd classify it as an entirely serviceable specimen.

Theres plenty to appreciate on EverGreens menu that doesnt break the bank. The appetizer order of calzones was a far more palatable value at $10 and delivered savory depth when stuffed with a rich mixture of well-seasoned ground beef, onion and cheese. And at three hand-made pockets of meaty joy per plate, this is one app that can easily stand in for a main course.

Pizzas takes up a sizable chunk of EverGreens menu. Theyre all priced at $16 with toppings running $2 per. Perhaps most interestingly, the crusts are available in house or vegan doughs. The former, we were told, is made with egg, while the latter is little more than flour, yeast and salt. The vegan margherita came topped with a better-than-most cheese alternative and a nicely crisped crust. The coating of unremarkable red sauce was countered by a fragrant blanket of basil and slices of fresh tomato.

The basic side salad served with our order was a thoughtfully composed blend of lettuces, avocado and herbs topped with a bright fruit-based dressing clearly one of many things to come out of the kitchens blenders. Smoothies ($12 for 20 ounces, $9 for 14 ounces, add $2 for a shot of organic fiber powder) are available in nine mostly familiar flavors such as strawberry banana, blueberry and so on. The signature EverGreen smoothie punches those basics up with the addition of leafy greens resulting in a pleasing puree that doubles as an honest side of veggies.

Expect some changes at EverGreen in the near future. Organic, grass-fed steaks are set to debut in coming weeks and minor tweaks to existing menu items are also planned. In the meantime, grab an order of those calzones and a smoothie for a guilt-free feast.

Location: 523 Med Court, Suite 102, 210-437-1057, evergreenclover.com. Facebook: EverGreen Organic Restaurant.

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday.

pstephen@express-news.net

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