Just a decade ago, Melisa Hasanspahi from the eastern Bosnian town of Gorade could not have imagined that today she would be running a food production business based on a recipe she inherited from her mother. However, her life changed when she started selling jars of her homemade ajvar, a widely popular vegetable delicacy, which she had previously only gifted to her loved ones.

"I love ajvar; I've always adored it," said Hasanspahi, now a food entrepreneur, whom family, friends and customers jokingly refer to as "Lady Ajvar".

The orange spread, based on roasted red peppers, is not only adored by Hasanspahi but also by the whole of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the entire Balkan region where other "Ladies Ajvar" like her give away or sell homemade ajvar in their communities.

But while Hasanspahi uses red peppers and aubergine to make it, some argue that "real" ajvar should only consist of four ingredients: red pepper, oil, salt and vinegar.

Recipes, however, depend on the region and the cook. Some, for instance, require the addition of garlic, others red onions, carrots and tomatoes. Some do not mention vinegar but suggest adding sugar. And many differ on whether the vegetables should be roasted, baked, boiled or even ground fresh. Whether the ajvar will have a sweet or spicy taste depends on the type of pepper used.

In the first known published ajvar recipe, found in the Great Serbian Cookbook from the 19th Century, author Katarina Popovi mentions both peppers and aubergine. Yet, Serbians usually make ajvar only from red peppers, while citizens of North Macedonia are typically the ones who also use aubergine.

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Ajvar: The vegan 'caviar' of the Balkans - BBC.com