Furniture World News Desk on 6/9/2022

Throughout the COVID-19 pandemic, there has been an evolution of how and where people live and work. There has been an increase in home buying as people increasingly have left city apartments for suburban homes. The volume of home improvement projects has also skyrocketed over the last several years, with many people who have been spending more time at home feeling anxious to enhance their environments. Simultaneously, companies are working to freshen up workplace setting as a different mix and cadence of employees return to the office. As people rethink their personal and professional environments, there are many considerations but one constant is the demand for furniture and furnishings to finish these new living and work spaces.

One of the greatest challenges has been supply pressures in the industry to meet this growing demand. With furniture purchase orders up month-over-month by a staggering 7.2% in January of this year alone, furniture providers in the U.S. are struggling to keep up with the pace, with some delivery delays stretching six to eight months, if not longer. As ongoing supply chain issues, combined with labor shortages, add even more pressure to an already strained system, many buyers are growing increasingly discouraged and, consequently, furniture sellers and suppliers are getting creative and international in their sourcing and looking to stock their inventories with beautiful pieces from all over the world.

Enter Brazil: the sixth largest producer of furniture globally. Brazil has taken advantage of the current opportunity where buyers are looking for unique and special pieces in a stressed supply and demand environment. As evidence, Brazilian furniture companies and designers have invested in innovative solutions that speed up production, shipping, and delivery. As a result of these efforts and more, furniture exports grew 50.9% from 2020 to 2021, with 35% of Brazils exports in the furniture industry specifically destined for American stores. Demand continues to go up in 2022, with early estimates showing that exports increased 42% in the first quarter of the year.

Here are three ways Brazil has elevated their furniture offerings and innovations over the past few years, positioning the country as one to watch for design catalogs, inspiration boards, wish lists, and more:

In an era defined by constantly changing interior trends, low-cost materials, and poor workmanship, its often rare to find furniture designers that prioritize sustainability. Brazilian designers, however, are staying true to their craftmanship roots in order to produce high-quality and durable pieces that are more environmentally friendly than their mass-produced alternatives. Whats more, the country as a whole has very strong environmental legislation that provides checks and balances to ensure environmental preservation is always at the forefront in the furniture sector and across other industries.

Native Brazilian designer Natasha Schlobach created the sensory-packed exhibition [RF1]that perfectly captured the high-energy nature of Brazilian culture and design. Over the two weeks, Brazilian furniture designers displayed their innovative takes on flooring, lighting, seating, wallcovering, and textiles with bold structures and unique color patterns purposed to capture the attention of American buyers, distributors, designers, and everyday consumers.

Since the start of the pandemic, furniture buyers around the world have suffered the impact of an industry crippled with shipping delays and supply chain obstacles. In the wake of these disruptions, Brazil has nimbly risen as a global furniture mecca, with sleek and sustainable designs that embody Brasilidade the unique essence of Brazil. This sector has contributed to Brazils overall economic growth, with all goods and services produced in the country increasing 1% in the first quarter of 2022, compared to the first quarter of 2021, and the countrys overall economy seeing 1.7% growth in the same timeframes. For individuals and home design businesses looking to obtain furniture pieces that bring extraordinary and meaningful beauty to the rooms they live in, Brazilian design is worth a look.

About Brazilian Trade and Investment Promotion Agency (ApexBrasil)ApexBrasil is the Brazilian governments trade and investment promotion agency. Regarding the investment activity, we support international investors as they analyze the opportunities to establish a plant in Brazil, start a partnership with a Brazilian company, or commit capital in Brazil through funds and companies. Our goal is to satisfy investors needs and generate results as we attract technology, innovation, new companies and generate jobs in Brazil. For more information, visitapexbrasil.com.

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How Brazil Is Meeting Demand to Bring Unique Furniture to the World - Furniture World

A fork in the road of life for the trailblazing Australian obstetrician and gynaecologist Caroline de Costa was the top of Grafton Street in Dublin, back in March 1967.

She had arrived in the city, on the recommendation of a Trinity College arts student she had met in Jerusalem, to try to resume the medical studies she had started in her native Sydney before taking a break to travel. But, having been told at Trinity that no exceptions could be made for missing the cut-off time to be interviewed for a place there, it was suggested she try the medical school at Catholic UCD, then on Earlsfort Terrace, or possibly the Royal College of Surgeons in Ireland (RCSI). She walked to the other end of Grafton Street, where she had the choice of veering left to find UCD, hidden from sight on the other side of St Stephens Green, or bearing right to the RCSI that was already in view. She chose the latter.

Fifty-five years later, talking over a cup of coffee in Dn Laoghaire, she reflects on how momentous that decision was. Life would have been very different for this pioneering obstetrician and long-time campaigner for womens rights in reproductive health, who married a fellow RCSI student, if she had turned left instead of right.

Coming from secular Australia and a family that she describes as Protestant areligious, she had no idea of the all-encompassing power the Catholic Church had over womens bodies in Ireland at the time. That eye-opening discovery was to come later.

Caroline de Costa's new book. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw

She was accepted into the RCSI, which she found to be an autonomous republic of many nations. There was an initial hiccup of being sent home on day one in October 1967 to swap her trousers for a decent skirt. But, as she recounts in her new book, The Womens Doc True stories from my five decades delivering babies and making history (Allen & Unwin), that dress code for women students soon changed, after the arrival of the mini skirt.

The following year she was relieved there was no question of her having to leave the college when she became a single mother. This might be Ireland but these are not Victorian times, she was told on disclosing her pregnancy.

Yet, with the father of her baby living in London and having little interest in me [and I in him], she writes, there were practical and financial worries. Not that she ever considered giving her son, Jerome, up for adoption, as so many other single pregnant women were pressurised into doing then. I was in a very small minority of women who could keep their child, she acknowledges. I had an advantage that my family was not going to be horrified; [they were] quite supportive from afar I had a brother who was here for a while and I wasnt Catholic.

As she was doing some freelance journalism to help fund her studies, she did go to a Catholic agency for fallen women while pregnant, purely for the purpose of research. After being given a pseudonym of Mary Mulcahy to protect her family, she heard from a nun about how placement in a mother and baby home would work, which gave her insight into the plight of other unmarried mothers and enough material for an English magazine article.

With almost a detached curiosity at the time about what it was going to be like to see through a pregnancy and give birth, she says: I had no doubts but I was also very naive. I didnt know anything about what could go wrong. She does now. Inevitably it is the more challenging births she attended as a clinician that lodged in her memory and are the most interesting in the retelling. (Reading the series of anecdotes in this memoir, I couldnt help but feel relieved that my childbearing years are successfully and safely behind me.)

In the late 1960s and early 1970s, when contraception in Ireland was illegal and an oft-denounced sin, de Costa played a part in helping women to avoid unwanted pregnancies by regularly smuggling in intrauterine devices (IUDs) from the UK. Her own obstetrician, Dr Rory OHanlon, had enlisted her help. He wanted to provide them for patients but risked deregistration if caught by customs, whereas as a student she was likely just to have the items confiscated.

The 'contraceptive train' featured on the front page of The Irish Times of May 24th, 1971

She was also on the famous contraceptive train of 1971, when members of the Irish Womens Liberation Movement made a very public journey to Belfast to buy condoms and bring them back to Dublin. Theres a photograph in the book to prove it of her and two-year-old Jerome helping customs officers with their inquiries on their return to Connolly station.

It amuses her that, 44 years later, the Rough Magic Theatre Company staged a musical about that trip. She travelled from Australia to attend the premiere of The Train in Limerick in 2015 and was gratified to see it attract young peoples interest in a time so different from theirs.

She has other history-making credits on her CV, not least being the first woman in Australia to become a professor of obstetrics and gynaecology, at James Cook University in Cairns. In 2006, she and a colleague in Queensland became the first doctors in Australia to be authorised to import and prescribe the medical abortion drug Mifepristone, also known as RU-486.

De Costas choice of medical specialisation was significantly influenced by a breech birth she witnessed as a student in 1972 at Dublins Coombe hospital. She was in awe at the skill of Dr Jim who safely delivered the baby girl buttocks first that day. When I saw this breech I thought would I ever be able to do this? It was a very important moment, she says. It really turned me on to how exciting this could be.

A magazine cover for a piece Caroline de Costa wrote in February 1971

By the time she had completed her medical studies at the RCSI, she had married a Sri Lankan classmate and had had her second child with him. The new graduates went to Papua New Guinea, then still an Australian colony, for their intern year. There she discovered that, as a married woman, she would receive only half the salary her husband did for doing the same work at Port Moresby General Hospital.

She encountered gender discrimination again after deciding to specialise in obstetrics and gynaecology. On seeking a junior registrars job in New South Wales, a professor told her that we never train women in Sydney. This local male stranglehold on the most female-centric possible area of medicine came as a complete surprise to her. When her husband also failed to get a surgical registrar post, almost certainly on the grounds of ethnicity in his case, they returned to Dublin to progress their careers. She worked in both the Rotunda and as assistant master in the Coombe, where she never felt at a disadvantage as a woman. I was incredibly well supported. While junior doctors in Australian talked of bullying and sexual harassment, I never experienced anything like that here.

Its hard to get the balance between women understanding that things can go wrong, that there may need to be a change of plan, and saying the majority of women will have a vaginal birth and a healthy baby

What she likes about obstetrics is that it is very interesting clinically. It also has a very big social component, she says. Youre aiming to produce not only a mother and child who are as healthy as possible, but who are also going back to an environment as good as it can be, and that is just as important.

Its clear the clinical work she found most satisfying in this regard was in remote regions of Queensland and among the large indigenous population there. I didnt enjoy private practice, she admits. She had always hoped to be able to combine academic work and research in Cairns with clinical practice in a public hospital but that wasnt possible, so she ended up seeing private patients.

Since she started out, there have been big improvements in both mortality and morbidity of mothers and infants but childbirth is still a risky business. No expectant parent should be too complacent, she suggests. Its hard to get the balance between women understanding that things can go wrong, that there may need to be a change of plan, and saying the majority of women will have a vaginal birth and a healthy baby. Her advice is to embark on this with an open mind.

Shes not a fan of homebirth, at least not unless there is a very good system supporting it, as things can go pear-shaped so quickly. You need to have proper back-up and good antenatal care. It needs to be completely normal to start with and you need to have a definite plan of when you will opt out of the home birth and move to the hospital.

Australian obstetrician and author Caroline de Costa. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw

Criticism about the medicalisation of birth, with the risk of one intervention leading to another, is perfectly valid, she acknowledges. However, she points not only to the reduction of mortality but also that there are some increased risk factors now among women giving birth.

They are having babies later in Ireland the average age of first-time mothers is almost 32. Theyre also heavier, which means they are more likely to have diabetes and hypertension. They are also more likely to have needed medical assistance to conceive. If you are going to do something complex like IVF, you are going to be much more anxious about the pregnancy when you achieve it and, therefore, much more likely to accept intervention, or even ask for it.

Within obstetrics, increasingly there is a view that the baby is going to come out easily vaginally or through an abdominal incision. There is no place for difficult forceps, she argues. If an obstetrician starts off doing a forceps or vacuum [delivery] and it is not going well in the first two or three contractions, you need to stop and take an alternative route.

Many more women are choosing to have a planned Caesarean section and, certainly in private practice in Australia, they are likely to get it, she says. Basically, it is a safe procedure for a first or even a second pregnancy.

Does she back a womans right to an elective Caesarean? I think so. Its not something I would have done myself, but quite a lot of women doctors do and they are pretty well informed. If you are going to try for a vaginal birth, you still have a reasonably high chance of ending up with an emergency Caesarean, which is riskier. That needs to be factored into it as well.

Its time, she believes, to stop talking about normal birth. With medicine now able to compensate for some of the shortcomings when its left entirely to nature, we have many kinds of birth and we should embrace them all, she says. Its not like studying for an exam. You can read as much as you like about it but you cant control what nature is going to do to you. It is not a competition.

No woman should have guilt that she has failed in her birth plan if intervention is required, she says, but rather enormous joy and the feeling that you have accomplished something absolutely amazing, because you have.

De Costa herself has given birth seven times. She thought her family was complete at five children, but, after Jerome died in a car crash when he was aged 17 and she was 39, she made a conscious decision to have another child, with the full support of her husband.

There will be more and more of the expectation that you can demand a perfect child designer babies

It necessitated the reversing of her tubal ligation but that worked immediately. She was 41 when she had the first of their two later children and then 44 when she had her youngest daughter, who is now 30. De Costa and her husband, referred to only as A in the book, have since divorced.

I did prenatal testing because I dont think I would have coped with an abnormality, she says. While the rapid evolution of non-invasive prenatal testing has been one of the big changes, she singles out ultrasound as the most amazing development during her career. Before that, it was pretty much guess work from the outside.

Ultrasound is getting more and more sophisticated, and she predicts there will be a time when parents will be able to get a printout of exactly what your baby is going to look like when it is as big as a grain of rice, just by genome sequencing and turning it into a kind of picture.

There will be more and more of the expectation that you can demand a perfect child designer babies. It makes her uneasy that technological advancements can happen without any proper discussion on how they are going to be used. Ireland today is completely transformed from her student days and, as it turned out, abortion was legalised here before New South Wales became the final Australian state to introduce it in 2019. The Catholic Church still has an impact on some reproductive health services over there, she says.

We have got big maternity hospitals in Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne, run by the Catholic Church, where there is public money, [but] no contraception, no sterilisation and no termination of pregnancy, none.

There is still the hypocrisy of the doctors having to say sorry, you have got this severe [foetal] abnormality but we cant do an abortion here. Women have to be directed to another hospital on the other side of the river which is something very familiar to me from my training years, she remarks.

De Costa is totally glad that a chance meeting brought her to Ireland. Her grandfather, who died 12 years before she was born, was Irish but she doesnt think her father, a physicist, grew up with any sense of Irishness. But when I came here, I just loved it. I started to feel Irish.

When her father visited Dublin during her first term at the RCSI, he went to look for his fathers birth certificate. He came back with a copy, having been told that, with an Irish father, he was entitled to Irish citizenship, which, in turn, she was too.

I have been Irish ever since. I have dual citizenship, she says. Living in Cairns but with friends here dating back to the 1960s, she is a frequent visitor, usually finding some conference to attend to make it tax deductible.

This time shes combining seeing friends with a publicity tour for what is her 15th book. Previous publications have included medical text books and several crime novels in recent years. An avid reader of the genre as she waited around in maternity hospitals for patients to labour to the point of delivery, she decided to write some herself.

It was part of her retirement plan, she says, for leaving a field of medicine that has become increasingly female since she entered it. And Prof Caroline de Costa, now a grandmother of three, has been one of the role models for that in Australia, due in no small part to her Irish medical education.

Read more from the original source:
'I was in a very small minority of women who could keep their child' - The Irish Times

Evolution Mining Limited. (OTCPK:CAHPF) Q3 2022 Earnings Conference Call April 20, 2022 9:00 PM ET

Company Participants

Jake Klein - Executive Chairman

Lawrie Conway - Chief Financial Officer & Finance Director

Glen Masterman - Vice President, Discovery & Business Development

John Penhall - General Manager Cowal Operations

Conference Call Participants

Matt Greene - Credit Suisse

Mitch Ryan - Jefferies

David Radclyffe - Global Mining Research

Al Harvey - JPMorgan

Daniel Morgan - Barrenjoey

Alex Barkley - RBC

Andrew Bowler - Macquarie

Matthew Collings - Morgans

Kate McCutcheon - Citi

Stuart McKinnon - The West Australian

Michael Bennett - AFR

Operator

Thank you for standing by and welcome to the Evolution Mining March 2022 Quarter Results Conference Call. All participants are in a listen-only mode. There will be a presentation followed by a question-and-answer session. [Operator Instructions]

I would like to now hand the conference over to Jake Klein, Executive Chairman. Please go ahead.

Jake Klein

Thanks Omni. Good morning. Welcome to the call and thank you for joining us. We do appreciate it. Bob Fulker, our Chief Operating Officer is taking a well-in break from todays call, so Im joined by our Finance Director and CFO, Lawrie Conway and our VP Discovery and Business Development Glen Masterman.

At a macro level, this quarter inflation in the U.S. rose to 8.5% its highest level in 41 years, while unemployment rates in the U.S. and Australia are at historic lows. Russia's invasion of Ukraine is now entering its third month, with the conflict showing no signs of reducing, and COVID continues to wreak havoc on people's health, workforce availability and supply chains.

Closer to home in February and March, the Australian East Coast was battered by heavy rainfall and flooding that tragically killed 21 people and required thousands of people to evacuate their homes. Against this backdrop, gold has been fulfilling its traditional role as the best hedge against inflation and geopolitical uncertainty. Regrettably for the world, I expect these issues to continue.

Turning to Evolutions quarterly reports and our performance and starting on slide three of the presentation. There are many highlights in today's report, but three are clear standouts for me. Firstly, our portfolio has been transformed into one which is amongst the highest quality, lowest cost cash generative, growth oriented portfolios in the gold sector. 148,000 ounces of gold produced an all in sustaining cost of A$990 an ounce was US$770 an ounce is a 27% reduction quarter-in-quarter and makes us very close to being the lowest cost gold producer of scale on the planet.

Operating mine cash flow increased 33% to $269 million. Net mine cash flow increased 135% to $124 million, but the bulk of the $144 million of capital being spent on our most important organic growth opportunities at Cowal and Red Lake. We paid our 18th consecutive dividend of $55 million bringing total dividends paid to shareholders to $1 billion.

Secondly, the impact of 100% ownership of Ernest Henry and the transformation at Red Lake. In the last quarterly report conference call three months ago, I said that I was confident that by securing 100% of Ernest Henry, we had concluded what is likely to prove to be one of the most transformative deals in Evolutions short history. Today's quarterly report is proof of this. The numbers speak for themselves.

Copper production more than tripled to over 13,000 tonnes resulting in an all in sustaining cost of negative $2,000 an ounce and the mine generated $185 million in operating cash flow. Gold sales were higher than production at 39,000 ounces due to an additional 20,000 ounces of gold that was sold to the to -- due to the cancellation of the previous economic interest.

Excluding the impact of those sales, operating cash flow for the quarter would have been $137 million and all-in sustaining costs would have been negative $4,200 per ounce. The transformation at Red Lake gained very important traction this quarter with a 67% increase in production to 33,000 ounces. We expect to improve this to over 40,000 ounces in the June quarter. It is testament to the significant efforts of our people at Red Lake and the operations team under Bob's leadership. We still have lots of work to do, but we are making tangible progress in creating value in this operation.

Thirdly, I was proud of the resilience our teams demonstrated. As mentioned a few moments ago, COVID and rain events caused problems across the country during the quarter and we were also affected. Over 25% of our workforce at Calow tested positive for COVID during the quarter, which amounted to 199 people. Fortunately, everyone is recovering. This of course excludes the impact of those named needing to isolate as a result of being deemed close contacts. Despite this, not only were we able to deliver a robust quarter at Calow, but the team was able to plan and execute a very logistically challenging seven day Mills shutdown, which required a multitude of contractors around 300 people to assemble on sites. With very strict protocols in place not one person involved in the shutdown tested positive.

The unprecedented East Coast rainfall in the quarter impacted both Calow and mount Rawdon. Cowal managed through it but at Mount Rawdon it did result in some instability in the north wall of the open pit. Although this is being managed, it has had and continues to have an impact on our ability to access higher grade oil from the open pit and also required the crusher to be shut down for nine days.

As you all know, the underperformance of Red Lake in the first six months of the year left us with very little runway on our original guidance and taking these new factors into accounts, we have reduced our FY 22 Production guidance by 20,000 ounces, or 3% from the lower end to around 650,000 ounces. We're expecting a strong fourth quarter with an increase in production of around 22%. There is no change to our sector leading all-in sustaining cost guns of $1,135 to $1,195 an ounce, so we will continue to produce high margin ounces.

On slide four, we have set out the results from Ernest Henry. Being a copper gold mine it is challenging to compare it to other gold mines. The best measure is cash flow. And on this measure, I am confident that they will be very few gold mines in Australia that generated $175 million in net mine cash flow this quarter. We have chosen to treat the copper as a by-product credit which delivers exceptionally low cost of negative $2,000 an ounce. Another lens to look at this through is on a gold equivalents basis. Through this lens, production for the March quarter would have equated to 95,000 ounces of gold, or 380,000 ounces on an annualized basis at a low all-in sustaining cost of A$11150 an ounce.

The charts on slide five tell the story of the transformation that is occurring at Red Lake. I am particularly pleased that we gained momentum through the quarter with March being the strongest month and in many areas breaking all-time records at the operation. Having consistently delivered about 1200 meters of development for the last six months, the Red Lake transformation plan now has a goal to consistently and safely mine 3000 ore times per day. This was achieved in March with 106,000 tonnes mined surpassing the previous monthly record in the history of the mine by more than 20,000 tonnes.

Pleasingly this mining rate is being sustained in April. On-going improvements to mining practices continue to drive reductions in stope dilution that improve mine grades by 17% this quarter. Both the Red Lake and Campbell mills are operating at record throughputs. The CYD decline which will provide an important new source of higher grade all gathered momentum and is on track to deliver the first production ore in the September quarter, only six months away. We expect improved production to over 40,000 ounces in the June quarter with the focus on sustaining this level consistently over the next few quarters. Whilst being a few quarters behind our original schedule, we do remain confident of the potential for Red Lake to be transformed into 350,000 ounces a year low cost operation.

Turning to slide six, the Cowal underground project continues to be on budget and schedule for critical path activity. Major procurement milestones have progressed during the quarter and the award of the primary mining and drilling contract is imminence. This will complete the award of all material contracts. First production ore from the project remains on schedule for the June 2023 quarter when the pace funds is commissioned.

Slide seven shows the significant impact of the Kundana and East Kundana acquisition has made on the future of Mungari. The integration is progressing well with the objective to create what we are describing as one Mungari standardized systems and processes and sharing of equipment and workforce costs what was previously three separately run operations.

One example of the operational synergies that are being captured as in underground maintenance and training teams with three separate units are being combined with significant savings and efficiencies. Recruitment of vacant roles is also progressing well with vacant roles reducing during the quarter despite the tight Western Australian Labor markets.

Turning to slide eight. Earlier this month, I was fortunate to be on site when Mount Rawdon hosted a delegation from the Queensland government led by the Minister of Resources, the honourable Scott Stewart. The visit included an update on the two gigawatt pumped hydro power project and the significant contribution it can make to delivering Queensland's renewable energy targets. As a potential pumped hydro facility Mount Rawdon is blessed by history, topography and location.

It has a huge head start in about in that about a billion dollars has already been spent mining 200 million which has been processed for gold production over the expected 25 year period of its life. That billion dollars has created a big hole which can be used as the lower reservoir of the pumped hydro scheme. In addition, the topography of the surrounding region also delivers Mount Rawdon a great natural sight for the upper reservoir.

In terms of location, fortunately, Mount Rawdon it's only 25 kilometers from major power lines connecting Queensland southern and central grids. And on top of that, the timing of the mines closure lines with Queensland decarbonisation strategy, with the state due to close the 700 megawatt Callide B coal-fired power station in 2028. The study work remains on-going and is due for completion in June 2023.

With that, I'll hand over to Glen to provide an update on our exploration and discovery activity.

Glen Masterman

Thank you, Jake and good morning. This morning I'll update on exploration progress achieved across the discovery portfolio in the March quarter, which is set out on slide nine. Key takeaways I'd like to draw to your attention are firstly, the positive drilling results returned on the key joint venture, which have expanded the mineralization footprint at West Island and confirm the presence of very good grades at this emerging discovery.

Secondly, at Mungari and Red Lake, drilling results continue to reinforce our views on underground upside potential, particularly at Kundana where we are delineating new areas of high grade mineralization very close to existing development.

Turning now to highlights in this morning's report. Commencing with our Cue joint venture in WA, we completed our first full quarter of managing and operating drilling activities after taking over from our partner masquerade minerals at the beginning of January. We recently switched analytical laboratories, which has reduced assay turnaround times from well over 12 weeks to a more manageable five weeks. Faster analytical turnaround times give us the confidence to accelerate diamond drilling, with a second core rig expected to arrive on the project during the June quarter. This will increase to three the total number of rigs on the JV ground in which we are earning 75% interest.

Encouraging results from the diamond program in the quarter are highlighted on page 11 of the report. Pleasingly we identified additional mineralized loads along the west Island trend, which has also extended 500 meters in recent aircore drilling to 2.1 kilometers long. The June quarter program will focus on drilling extensions of non-structures to understand potential scale of the mineral system and to test other targets styles that may be important to hosting high grade gold.

At Mungari, drilling results outlined on page 14 extended the structure that hosts the Christmas hanging wall load at Kundana. This mineralisation is located 35 metres from the main Christmas ore body which we're currently mining. The results signify that the important ore bearing structure remains open along [Indiscernible]. The next round of drilling will target the high grade quartz load within the structure with the aim of potentially expanding the high grade mineral resource.

An exciting implication of the recent Christmas results is the realization of untested potential and the hanging wall of the stress load where this structural position is modeled to continue. At Red Lake, drilling retained high grade results own extension of the ozone at lower Campbell, as summarized on pages 12 and 13 of this morning's report. The results confirm great continuity at the local scale and highlight an opportunity for significant resource potential between these deep intercepts at the bottom of the lower Campbell mineral resource. Future drilling will be planned at short step outs from adjacent development to extend the mineral resource into the 500 meter gap identified on the ozone corridor. I look forward to sharing the results of the June quarter drilling programs at our next opportunity in July.

With that, I'll hand over to Lawrie.

Lawrie Conway

Thank you, Glen. Good morning, everyone. This morning, I'm pleased to update on our financial performance for the March quarter as shown on slide 10 of the presentation and outlined on pages 9 and 10 of the report. We're in a very strong quarter of cash generation with operating cash flow up one third to $269 million and we delivered a $125 million of net mined cash flow. This was an increase of 135% from December. We invested $144 million in capital comprising $33 million in sustaining and 111 million on major projects.

At Group Capital guidance remains unchanged at $150 to $175 million for sustaining capital, and $440 million to $505 million for major projects. Group cash flow for the quarter was just under $22 million. Jake mentioned are excellent all-in sustaining cost performance for the quarter, and the $990 per ounce equates to a margin of around 60%. We remain on track to deliver our group all-in sustaining costs within the guidance range of $1135 to $1195 per ounce. We did see some higher costs come through in the quarter and these were in line with what we outlined with our half year results.

As I mentioned that the half year results though, the improvement in metal prices and revenue are more than offsetting these cost pressures. Now achieved gold price was up 3.6% in the quarter. The achieved copper price was down slightly by 1.5% but our copper volume more than tripled. The focus remains on managing the cost pressures across all of it.

The balance sheet continued to strengthen even after the increased debt associated with the Ernest Henry acquisition. Our gearing is sitting at around 23% and is expected to trend down below 20% in the coming months. This is in line with our first target level that we set post any acquisition. We ended the quarter with a cash balance of $538 million and have around $900 million of liquidity.

Turning to slide 11, and a summary of the quarter, delivering an all-in sustaining cost below $1,000 per ounce is certainly sector leading and we will finish the year within our group cost guidance range. The margins we are generating is able to fund our growth plans and still return funds to our shareholders. The immediate exceptional contribution from Ernest Henry is evident in terms of additional copper exposure, reducing our group all-in sustaining costs, and materially increasing the cash flow. The existing mine life plus the expected extensions, we'll see this cornerstone asset generates significant benefits for many years to come. The ability of the team at Red Lake to achieve improvements in all areas of the operation gives us confidence that the transformation is now progressing well and we expect the momentum to increase again in the June quarter.

The other assets are performing well. And throughout the business, we have demonstrated resilience against the extreme rainfall events, and the impacts of COVID especially the isolation requirements for positive cases and close contacts. We are in a very good position to close out the financial year.

Thank you for your time this morning. And Harmony, please open the line for questions.

Question-and-Answer Session

Operator

Thank you. [Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from Matt Greene from Credit Suisse. Please go ahead.

Matt Greene

Hey, good morning, Jake and the team. My first question is just on Red Lake -- do you think heading in the right direction? My question is around the milling. Can you please provide some context as to how running the Campbell mill beyond the 2000 tonnes per day? Are you getting a sense of what the optimal milling capacity could be? And just to confirm the exception to run beyond that level. I think, I recall you mentioning about it was only for six to eight weeks. Is that the case? Or have you been able to extend it?

Jake Klein

Yes, so the last question first. It's a 12-week trial that we've you can restart, if it's intermittent. So we are confident that we can run it till the end of June and into early July at these higher rates of 2000 tonnes, but we are we're pushing it to the boundaries. I think it was only running at about 17 tonnes or 1800 tonnes a day when we acquired the operation. These are the milling throughput, which it achieved in the first quarter are historic, historic highs as the other mining roads. So we're starting to get the productivity through that we need to convert this into a medium grade higher tonnage operation.

Matt Greene

That's great. Thanks, Jake. And then, development rates are being sustained above the 1200 minutes a month. And if you're able to get 3000 tonnes a day on a sustained basis, what's your thinking around the Bateman mill versus Red Lake mill. I mean its a new mill, are there potential for cost savings there or scale. If you were to go down that medium grade path, it's a transition to Bateman. And what's your thinking around running all three mill?

Jake Klein

Yes, so we're assessing that, Matt now. It is a thing and 11 kilometer distance from the Campbell and Red Lake Mills. We're also doing the, we have the opportunity to do the bulk trial at McKinley deposit, which is near the Bateman mill. But we're working out the milling strategy, obviously, the upper Campbell area, which will come on track in the first half of next year from the CYD decline gives us higher grade and potentially completely independent access to ore [ph] bodies. So, up until now, we've been focusing on keeping the two mills filled, because this is the first quarter, which the Red Lake mill and the Campbell mill have run combined throughout the quarter. So up until now, issues being on mining rates, we're getting that right; we need to start getting consistency and reliability. We feel we're getting there, you can see the trends. But obviously we've had a tough 12 mind set at Red Lake pre this quarter.

Matt Greene

Yes, that's great, Jake. And then just on Cowal changing quarter there with the rain and COVID mentioned the 25% of confirmed cases, if we were to take the close contacts that had to isolate what sort of levels of entities and to the experience of time on site?

Jake Klein

I think I saw that the highest level of absenteeism on one day was about 80 people, 75 to 80 people, it's now down to about 35. So it's reducing, but 80 out of about 400 people is a lot of people off site. That's 400 of total workforce. So if you took that that shift and those who are on break, it would be less than the 400.

Matt Greene

Yes, got it. Okay. And then do you expect things to ease with the recent, these recent changes on close contacts by the government.

Jake Klein

On John Penhall, the general manager of Cowal is sitting in the room. Yes, he's nodding his head. But what none of us are pandemic experts. So we're hopeful. Yes, Cowal has dealt with the brunt of it. And they've dealt with it very, very well. I mean, getting 300 people onto site for a shutdown was a pretty remarkable achievement without getting infections.

Matt Greene

Yes, I appreciate it. Okay. And look, if I could just squeeze one last one on Mount Rawdon there, perhaps a longer dated question here. A lot of a lot of gold miners wanting to become net zero on emissions. What's your thinking on this pump hydro project, could this be a project that you participate in the future and look to maybe, I guess, generate credits to offset carbon elsewhere in the portfolio? And they're just on the scale, how did you arrive at the 2 gigawatts for 10 hours?

Jake Klein

So I think the scale has been determined really by the reservoir capacity on the pit. It is a multibillion dollar project and we are not power operators and we don't intend to become them. But yes, there is, the opportunity which I've described, can we have some ownership of the projects, it would be small, and a disproportionate amount of carbon credits to me would be a structuring outcome that would be fantastic for Evolution. It's, we haven't yet been able to test it. The first priority is to make sure that this project is feasible and economic. The prefeasibility study says that it is, the meetings with the Queensland Government suggests that it fits and aligns exceptionally well within their requirements. The more I read about pumped hydro and deep battery storage, the more compelling Mount Rawdon becomes. But fundamentally Matt Evolutions priority is twofold; one is to do the right thing by the community and the remediation of the mind. The second thing is to maximize the value of the project and the pumped hydro has the potential to be a very significant and valuable project for Evolution shareholders.

Matt Greene

That's great. Appreciate your time. Thanks Jade.

Operator

Thank you. Your next question comes from Mitch Ryan from Jefferies. Please go ahead.

Mitch Ryan

Good morning, Jake and team. First question. This one's probably Lawrie we'll have some on page 10 of your quarterly working capital build of roughly $67 million during the quarter. That seems high relative to previous quarters. I'm guessing it's got something to do with the Ernest Henry Acquisition but just wondering if you could please provide some color on that quantum of movement.

Lawrie Conway

Yes, Mitch it's exactly that I mean what happened in the March quarter is we closed out the joint venture. So we get the gold sales. So that was a positive working capital movement. But we then moved to 100% of the concentrate, which works on either a three or four month, quotation or period. So in this very first quarter of owning 100%, our working capital will increase, and it increased by over $40 million on the receivable side. And that was the major impact on our movement in working capital in the quarter.

Mitch Ryan

Thank you. And my second question. And understandably, you've softened the guidance for FY 22, given the events during the quarter. Just wondering if there any drivers for that change that are likely to flow into FY 23 and ended up potential risk of impacting sort of the guidance out there for FY 23 currently?

Lawrie Conway

I think Mitch the real risk is on Red Lake. We had guidance out there for 200,000 ounces for next year. We are really looking at that. We are likely to need to downgrade that in due course, as the final budgets and loans come in place. But it is, at 40,000 ounces is the next hurdle and then 50,000 ounces that caught up from there.

Mitch Ryan

And then I guess on that, then can you provide a bit of clarity on Red Lake with regards to that 40,000 ounces? My the way I would think about it is that that's the new base once you've achieved that in the fourth quarter, is that the right way to be thinking about it? Or is it a running hard in the fourth quarter and may come down in 1Q FY 23?

Jake Klein

No, what we saw, when we had this debate around reducing guidance in the range, we've made a conscious effort to try not to push the sights in the fourth quarter and fall off the edge of the cliff in the first quarter next year. So we are very driven by the fact that we've recognized our missteps at Red Lake. We need to build confidence and we need to get credibility. And we are going to be trying to build a base and then step up from those bases.

Mitch Ryan

Thank you. That's it for me.

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Evolution Mining Limited (CAHPF) Management on Q3 2022 Results - Earnings Call Transcript - Seeking Alpha

If it wasnt our show, these subjects wouldnt have gotten out there, he said. We can take on certain topics people are afraid to approach. We can flip them on their head. (And yes, he is all for slavery reparations.)

And race is still very much a central part of the show. The first episode has Alfred and his crew in Amsterdam where they encounter a disarming amount of Blackface, which is largely verboten in the United States but not so much in Europe.

And Alfred learns that fame often turns his humanity into a commodity, Henry said. Racism is not just an American thing. During a poker game in episode three at a rich mans home, Alfred is told its a $20,000 buy in and almost to overcompensate over the presumption he might not have that amount to gamble, he whips out $60,000 in cash.

No matter what level of success he finds himself in, Henry said, he still has to prove he belongs at this table. He experiences a lot of dichotomous situations.

One of the stranger situations is in a Netherlands jail, where he is treated like a king and he likes it so much, he takes a nap before leaving, even after Earn had paid for his bail. And when Alfred gets out and has some extra cash, he just throws it at his adoring fans as if they were a bunch of strippers at Magic City.

Hes leaning into the perks of being Paper Boi, Henry said. They dont need to know Alfred. He is bringing these fans a certain kind of joy.

Henry himself feels that dichotomy as well, given his own level of fame thanks to all the film work hes done in recent years. He has been feted in serious films like If Beale Street Could Talk and Widows and crowd-pleasing big-budget films like Godzilla vs. Kong or Eternals. He, like Paper Boi, is now recognized everywhere.

It doesnt matter if Im Paper Boi or in a Marvel movie, he said. I cant afford not to be conscious about my standing. Thats the same with Alfred. People love him, but something is always dragging him back.

And he knows even in these press interviews, theres an artifice to it all, that he cant be entirely vulnerable to a random journalist. We shouldnt give parts of ourselves away to people who dont deserve it, he said. We have to navigate to make those parts precious and keep to ourselves.

Als relationship with his cousin Earn has become more business, less personal. As his manager, Earn is mostly there for logistics and problem solving, whether its scrounging up cash to get Al out of prison in time for a concert or to interrogate suspects who may have stolen Als smartphone.

During the fifth episode, Al attempts to connect with Earn during a quiet moment, asking how hes been doing, noting how he seems busy all the time. Earn, in pure business mode, provides Al nothing except to agree, saying. Busys good before leaving the room. Earn, as usual, seems disconnected and vaguely unhappy.

There are glimmers of them trying to hold on to the family aspect during the season, Henry said. But there are things pulling Alfred away.

In comparison, the relationship between the surrealistically quirky Darius (LaKeith Stanfield) and Alfred remain rock solid. Its an unspoken understanding that their friendship is authentic with no strings attached. That is something that never deviates, he said.

Fame and success, though, has clouded Als ability to make music. And he admits to a stranger, a possible culprit who might have stolen his phone, that he wasnt really into rapping but its what he does and its too late to do anything else.

Henry has spent the past ten months in Atlanta, after finishing Atlanta to shoot another FX series called Class of 09, an upcoming sci-fi thriller that just recently wrapped. But he will always treasure Atlanta, which is ending after four seasons.

While Atlanta doesnt reach the eyeballs of some of Henrys big-budget movies, the show is a representation of home for me. These other projects take me all over the world. Even when we shot Atlanta in Europe, it felt like coming home. It still felt like it was ours.

ON TV

Atlanta, Thursdays at 10 p.m. on FX and available on Hulu the next day

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INTERVIEW: Brian Tyree Henry on the pure genius of Atlanta and evolution of Alfred/Paper Boi - The Atlanta Journal Constitution

As we step out into the world again to meet friends or go about our lives the closest to normal that is possible, beauty brands are ready to help. The latest releases bring to mind freedom, fun and joy.

From bright colours to a glimmery effect, these products can help you achieve your best out-of-the-house look.

Choose your icon

To elevate your lipstick wardrobe Rihanna has created the Fenty Icon Lipstick Case in Matte Black, a stylish and fully customisable lipstick case.

Photo: FentyCustomisable with all Fenty Icon Refillable Lipstick fills, this luxe matte black lipstick case lets you mix and match your Icon Lipstick shades to suit any mood or style. Beyond customisation, you can also be part of Fenty Beautys earth-conscious evolution to reduce waste with these refillable components.

With a range of seven neutrals and three reds, anyone can find a classic to fit the look that you want.

All in one

Nudestix travels back to Y2K to launch the Nudegold Glam Palette, a six piece palette inspired by the euphoria of summer. Nudegold Glam Palette is a limited edition collection of summer favourites for eyes and lips that features a new Magnetic Luminous Eye Colour and Nude Lip Glace. It comes in a custom fine art tin created by artist Jessica Gorlicky with a mirror to hold your summer essentials.

Eye colours include a nude champagne-gold (new), nude rose-gold, nude copper-gold and nude burgundy-gold, while the lip colour is a matte tan-nude. Another new addition is the nude rose-gold shimmer Lip Glace that completes the palette. The Nude Gold Palette is vegan, gluten-free, cruelty-free and synthetic fragrance-free and is formulated without parabens and sulfates.

Read more: Having a problem with 'cakey face'? Here are some beauty tips that can help

Photo: ChanelLuxury balm

Inspired by the flowers that grow around La Pausa, Chanels latest Rouge Coco Baume reflect the colours of summer flowers. The spirit of La Pausa inspired the brand to develop a lip care product with unique sensory qualities, combining the colour provided by a lipstick with the moisturising benefits of a balm.

Olive Oleoactive, a new active ingredient produced specifically for the brand and an echo to La Pausas hundred-year-old olive trees contains a high concentration of polyphenols and omega-9s, which provides antioxidant protection.

Shea butter and three plant waxes at the heart of the Hydra Boost Complex, the signature ingredient of the Rouge Coco line, keeps your lips moisturised.

From deep burgundy to fresh pink, it is available in six shades, along with a transparent, pearlescent white shade which completes the collection and intensifies the natural radiance of the lips.

Dewy lips

Why choose between wearing a beautiful lip tint and enjoying nourished, supple lips? You dont have to with innisfrees new Dewy Tint Lip Balm inspired by the shades of bright petals in nature.

Photo: Innisfree

Innisfrees tinted lip balm is available in five different natural rosy shades alongside a colourless Treatment Lip Balm. The formula contains Jeju camellia seed oil and camellia ceramide that provides deep moisturisation to soften the texture for healthy-looking plump lips. These tints have a moist formula containing hyaluronic acid ampoule which deeply nourishes chapped and dehydrated lips to reveal moist, dewy glass lips.

Its formula has been dermatologically tested to keep lips in great condition and has the added scent of eucalyptus for daily use, suitable for even sensitive lips.

Read more: People are 'mewing' to sculpt their faces, but does this beauty technique work?

Luminous skin

Formulated with SPF, anti-pollution and anti-blue light properties, the Gucci Cushion De Beaute the brands first cushion foundation is a lightweight and moisturising foundation that offers buildable coverage and glowy skin.

Cushion De Beaute features high reflection index oils and mineral powders that maximise the reflection of light on the skin to provide a luminous finish.

Photo: Gucci

A moisturising complex composed of glycol and glycerin deeply hydrates the skin, while the Black Rose Oil, one of Gucci Beautys key ingredients, offers antioxidant protection.

Debuting in six shades, Cushion De Beaute is encased within a pastel pink compact. A distinctive Gucci design adorns the top of the round casing, which features a lion pattern surrounded by a wreath of flowers. Inside is a mirror and soft cushion applicator, and the foundation itself is refillable, allowing wearers to reuse the same compact as a cherished beauty relic.

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Vanity Fare: Lip and eye colours take on the vibrant shades of summer - The Star Online

Rabbit ears are multiplying.

With cord-cutting continuing, the number of U.S. homes that get content over-the-air through an antenna has grown to 18.6 million in the fourth quarter of 2021, up from 18.4 million a year ago, according to a new report from Nielsen.

Those 19 million homes represent 15.3% of households, up from 14.3% in the fourth quarter of 2018, when there are 16.7 million over the air homes and just 10% in 2010.

While over-the-air homes have grown, the share of homes with cable, satellite or telco pay-TV services -- what Nielsen calls Cable Plus has shrunk to 57% in the fourth quarter from 76% in 2018. Broadband only homes increase to 27% from 9% over the same interval.

The increase in over-the-air homes and viewing is supporting the growth of diginets launched by broadcasters including E.W. Scripps, Sinclair, Tegna and Weigel.

Nielsen took a closer look at those households over-the-air households in its Local Watch Report titled "The Over-the-Air Evolution."

Nielsen divides OTA home into three segments, those with no streaming subscription VOD services (and maybe no broadband); those with SVOD, but without a virtual multichannel video programming distributor, such as Hulu Plus Live TV, YouTube TV or Sling TV; and those with SVOD and vMVPDs.

The largest group uses OTA and SVOD at 9.3% of the country, up from 7.2% in 2018. The OTA homes with vMVPDs rose to 1.9% from 1.2%, while the OTA only home fell to 4.1% from 5.9%.

People in homes that go over-the-air but dont stream have an average age of 61, only 13% of them have children and their median income is $22,800.

Also: Nielsen Executive Shows Support For Expanding Age Demo to 25-64

People in homes that combine over-the-air viewing with at least one streaming service have an average age of 45, 40% of them have kids and the median income is $49,000. In the homes that have OTA and a vMVPD, the average age is 49, 35% have children and the median household income is $77,000.

Over-the-air homes spend 3 hours and 50 minutes a day watching TV, more than the 2:53 of viewing time in broadband only homes. Cable plus subscribers spend 5:07 with TV.

Among the three OTA groups, those that are OTA only watch the most at 4:58 a day. That compares to 4:11 for the homes that combine OTA with vMVPDs and 3:26 for OTA homes with one SVOD subscription.

In the report, 68% of OTA viewers say they speed less than $100 on TV services. Among all TV viewers 45% say they spend less than $100 on TV.

The majority of OTA viewers say they can access fewer than 20 channels, while most other TV viewers say they can watch more than 50 channels.

Nielsen said the top OTA markets are Albuquerque, Milwaukee, Kansas City, Phoenix and Oklahoma City.

Austin is the 8th ranked metered market in OTA penetration, but is the No. 1 market for OTA homes with an SVOD and vMVPD service at almost 7%. Given Austins reputation as a young, growing city, and the recent transplant of Tesla, it makes sense that this OTA segment is so large, the report notes.

News is important to OTA consumers. They also watch a lot of weekday daytime TV, according to Nielsen.

OTA viewers are an important segment of the media landscape as there is less concern for advertisements than other TV consumers. Ad-free and skipping ads features were at the bottom of the list for all TV viewers when choosing a TV service, but within the OTA segment, only 1 in 3 found these attributes 'extremely or very' important," the report said.

The bottom line: Broadcasters still have a lot to gain from the OTA universe, the report said. These consumers are still interested in staying up to date with news, less concerned with skipping ads, and practice a budget-conscious lifestyle. Couple that with diversity, family status, increased HH income, and media savvy, and that makes OTA audiences a key cog in the media wheel of the future.

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Nielsen Sees Uptick in Over-the-Air Households - Next TV

Getty Images/Michael Stillwell

The president is no doubt the most powerful political figure in the United States, but make no mistake: the first lady is just as influential in her own right. In addition to the many speeches she gives, the appearances she makes, and the causes she champions, she is also one of the most-followed people in the countryespecially when it comes to her fashion choices.

For decades, many of the leading ladies, such as Jackie Kennedy, Hillary Clinton, and Michelle Obama, have established themselves as style icons with their own distinct looks. What they wore was not only a reflection of their husbands' politics, but their sartorial choices also had the ability to capture the public's attention, unlike any other official. Their outfitsfrom the stylish power suits to the elegant inaugural ball gownswere carefully and purposefully thought out and meant to send a message to the American people.

Since the premiere of Showtime's highly-anticipated series The First Lady, all eyes are on these women of power more than ever now. Ahead, join us as we take a stroll down memory lane and look back at how first lady fashion has evolved since 1789.

More: Rare Photos of Presidents and First Ladies Relaxing While in Office

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While she is often depicted as matronly, Martha Washington was actually considered incredibly stylish during the colonial era. Following the death of her first husband, Martha amassed quite a fortune, and as a result, only dressed in the finest of garments, jewels, and footwear. For her wedding day to George Washington, she famously wore a pair of royal purple slippers with sparkly buckles, which has since been referred to as the " Manolo Blahniks of her time." And though she only dressed in the best, Martha made it a point to never look ostentatious during George's presidency and chose to only wear outfits that were a reflection of the new nation.

At the time of John Adams's presidency, tension with France had reached a fever pitch, resulting in the Alien and Sedition Acts. Making a political statement through her attire, the second president's wife rejected the on-trend French fashion of the time and often opted for more modest and traditional silhouettes instead. In a letter to her sister in 1800, she described the revealing attire as "an outrage upon all decency."

Not all first ladies were the wives of the president. Thomas Jefferson's daughter with his late wife served as hostess and informal first lady during his presidency. Though not much is known about Martha Jefferson Randolph's style, she must have been well-dressed as an adult since an early letter from her father revealed how looking put together was important to him. He wrote, "At all times let your clothes be clean, whole, and properly put on... I hope therefore the moment you rise from bed, your first work will be to dress yourself in such a stile as that you may be seen by any gentleman without his being able to discover a pin amiss."

Known for her hospitable nature and lavish social gatherings at the White House, Dolley Madison has become one of the most iconic first ladies in American history. In addition to her warm persona, she was also beloved for her impeccable taste in style. After wedding James Madison, Dolley famously ditched her traditional Quaker attire for bright colors, fine fabrics, head-turning turbans, and stylish dresses and accessories from Napoleon's France. Margaret Bayard Smith, a chronicler of early Washington social life at the time, wrote of her: She looked a Queen It would be absolutely impossible for any one to behave with more perfect propriety than she did."

Years before James Monroe became president, he and Elizabeth resided in Paris, where he was a United States Minister for George Washington's administration. There, her warmth, beauty, and sense of fashion earned her the nickname of "la belle Americaine." When James took office, Elizabeth was in poor health and stepped back from many of her duties. But when she did make an appearance, she knew how to wow a crowd. One guest at the Monroes last levee described the First Lady as regal-looking and noted that her dress was superb black velvet; neck and arms bare and beautifully formed; her hair in puffs and dressed high on the head and ornamented with white ostrich plumes; around her neck an elegant pearl necklace. Though no longer young, she is still a very handsome woman.

There isn't much written about Louisa Adams's style, but being that she was born in London and spent many years in Europe, the First Lady presumably knew a thing or two about fashion. She also was interested in cosmetics, which was still deemed very controversial at the time.

Like Andrew Jackson before him, Martin Van Buren was also a widower while president. He enlisted his daughter-in-law to assume the role of first lady, and it's not hard to see why: she was wealthy, beautiful, well-connected, and extremely stylish. Historians believe that even Queen Victoria was impressed by Angelica when she met her. For that presentation, she wore the same off-the-shoulder white gown she wore for her White House portrait.

No one loved the attention more than Julia Tyler. At 19-years-old, the socialite posed for a department store ad that called her the "rose of Long Island," which was considered a big no-no for prominent women of the time. By the time she served as first lady, she was a frequent figure in the papers. One reporter, in particular, referred to her as the "Presidentress" in his stories, in which he often wrote about her clothes, skin, and personality. While Julia was only in the role for a mere eight months, she was eager for attention, making sure she was always well put together in lavish clothing and costumes. A style icon indeed.

During her tenure, Sarah Polk was quite the fashionista. While James Polk was in office, the first lady often hired seamstresses to make dresses out of patterns she liked, using the finest velvet, satin, and silk-decorated materials. Frills were not her thing; solid colors were as they looked more flattering against her dark hair and olive complexion. Like Dolley Madisonwho also happened to be her confidanteSarah also favored Parisian designs, often opting for French accessories, too. Dressing well played a key role in her time in the White House since it conveyed the importance of the office.

Unlike her predecessors, Milliard Filmore's wife wasn't into fashion. She once stated, "It is amusing to look on and see the great vanity of costume and the great effort made to rival each other at display, but it does not interest me. I seldomnever go into the parlor." Instead, it is said she preferred reading and music.

Considered the first modern first lady, James Buchanan's beloved niece was no doubt a trendsetter. Her signature look featured ruffles, white berthas at the neck, and European dresses with low necklinessomething that was considered not in fashion in America during the mid-19th century. While her ensembles caused scandals, her style caught on very quickly and many women of the time began copying her.

Mary Todd Lincoln liked the finer things in life. It is said that while Abraham Lincoln was in office, she loved shopping and would spend thousands of dollars for a dress to be made, which subsequently left her in great debt. Like many of the designs of France, she usually chose to wear low-cut dresses in bright colors and floral designs, which were created by her personal dressmaker and confidante Elizabeth Keckley. As Mary put it, "I must dress myself in costly materials. The people scrutinize every article that I wear with critical curiosity. The very fact of having grown up in the West subjects me to more searching observation. To keep up appearances, I must have money, more than Mr. Lincoln can spare for me."

In addition to being known for wearing elegant ensembles made of expensive materials, Eliza Johnson was also responsible for her husband Andrew Johnson's attire. It is said she managed his wardrobe as a way to help maintain his dignity while as president.

During her time as first lady in Ulysses S. Grant's administration, Julia Grant had no interest in fashion and only dressed in American-made clothes that were becoming to my person and the condition of my purse. Her looks were simple but were often made of rich fabrics accessorized with pearls, diamonds, and corals.

Though she followed the fashion of the era, Lucy Hayes often opted for elegant styles with modest silhouettes, such as high-neck and long sleeve dresses. Some praised her for her ensembles, while others criticized her conservative style.

Because Lucretia Garfield only served as the first lady for six months, her sense of style remains a mystery. But what historians do know is that she didn't support "dress reform" that called for less constricting clothing for women since she believed it could be a potential threat to the traditional family. This has led many to believe she skewed towards conservative dressing as well.

By the end of the century, French fashion still reigned supreme, but Grover Cleveland's wife was beginning to rely more heavily on department stores in the United States. During both terms, her wardrobe was filled with bright colors and her go-to look was dcollet gowns, a style that many were critical of. Still, though, many young women looked to her as a fashion icon and copied her look.

Caroline Harrison was very devoted to Benjamin Harrison's politics, and she showcased that through her clothing. When she designed her inaugural dress, she had specific requests for it to be made in the United States because her husband's campaign strongly advocated for an even more prosperous America.

While in the White House, Ida McKinley amassed quite a fashion collection. She often wore blue, as this was her favorite color, and gowns featuring high collars and puffy sleeves. The McKinley Museum in Canton, Ohio, has identified 20 of her dresses and is currently in the process of conserving each piece.

While most first ladies loved the spotlight, Teddy Roosevelt's wife wasn't one of them. She famously wore the same ensembles to events but would change the descriptions of them in her press releases. Based on photos, the styles she'd typically opt for were frilly dresses that were embroidered with gathered sleeves.

If a first lady were to get an award for best hat collection, it would be Helen Taft. In many of her portraits, William H. Taft's wife is wearing her hair in an updo with an intricately ornate hat featuring all sorts of florals and ribbonsa massive trend of the early 20th century.

Woodrow Wilson's second wife, Edith, however, was very interested in fashion. While in the White House, dressing in a respectable manner was of the utmost importance to her, so she always carefully selected her clothing. Though her signature look was also simple, with many of her dresses being black, Edith only dressed in the finest fashions from France. Like many of the first ladies before her, she loved designer Maison Worth, but post-World War I, she often wore clothes by new designers Gabrielle Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli.

Despite being an older first lady at the start of the roaring 20s, Florence Harding was seemingly very in touch with the times. With her on-trend beaded dresses and fur coats, she usually wore a silk neckband, which many young women adopted and called "Flossie Clings." She also loved accessorizing her looks with a bouquet of delphinium flowers.

Calvin Coolidge's wife fully embraced flapper fashion while she was the first lady. A cultural and style icon to the American people, she ditched the usual conservative garb of her predecessors for shorter skirts and loose-fitting frocks. Grace also loved wearing bright colors: she was impartial to all but was often wearing red.

When Lou Hoover became first lady in 1929, she was recognized as being one of the "best-dressed women in official life." But unlike the women who were previously in her role, she never wore clothing from French fashion houses. Her entire wardrobe consisted of American-made clothes, and at one point, only wore cotton dresses to help promote the cotton textile industry.

Eleanor Roosevelt is remembered for many thingsincluding her opinions related to human rightsbut not so much her clothing choices. Simplicity was the name of the game for her during her husband's three terms as president. She preferred conservative, everyday pieces that could be worn with blouses and accessories. Yet, there are still some fashion moments many remember her by: her shimmering blue inaugural ball gown and being the first first lady to be photographed in a bathing suit.

Bess Truman didn't like the spotlight very much as first lady, but she still always managed to dress the part. During the late 40s and early 50s, prints and knee-length skirts were all the rage. As shown here, Bess looked effortlessly in style next to her husband, Harry Truman. That shouldn't come as a surprise since a childhood friend once recalled that she "always looked more stylish than anyone else we knew."

Throughout her eight years as first lady, Mamie Eisenhower was adamant about looking young and stylish. As she famously stated, "I hate old-lady clothes. And I shall never wear them." She frequently wore bright, printed day dresses; many of them were sleeveless since that was Dwight D. Eisenhower's favorite feature. Mamie also loved all-things pink: most memorably, she wore the hue at the 1953 inaugural ball, and it became known as "Mamie Pink." Accessories were essential for every one of her outfits, too. She often wore hats over her trademark short bangs, a fabulous pair of shoes with every look, and liked jewelry from dimes stores.

When it comes to style, there is perhaps no first lady more influential than Jackie Kennedy. Simply put, she is the poster girl for timeless first lady fashion and continues to be admired for her elegant ensembles. Her minimal, monochromatic outfits, classic pillbox hats, and Chanel suits were among her most iconic looks when John F. Kennedy was in office, and even after he passed. Jackie always put thought into what she stepped out in, too. When she and the president would travel overseas, she insisted on wearing the colors of the host country as a tribute to them. To this day, she still makes her mark on fashion, with many trying to emulate her legendary look.

While Lady Bird Johnson wasn't quite as memorable as Jackie Kennedy in the fashion department, she left her mark, too. During Lyndon B. Johnson's terms, she gravitated towards bright, conservative numbers, wearing sunny yellow, citrus orange, and lime-like hues. Yet, at the same time, the Texas-born first lady was also best remembered for her casual style, including pants, western boots, and rancher hats, which she often wore on the LBJ ranch.

No one knew how to make a political statement through their clothes quite like Pat Nixon. During the height of the feminist movement, she frequently ditched conservative dresses for pantsuits, which many regarded as symbolic of women's equality. And when she and Richard Nixon visited China in 1972, she donned an iconic tea-length wool coat in reda color considered as good luck for the Asian nationthat served as a symbol of the budding friendship between the two countries.

Fun fact: Betty Ford was the only first lady to ever work in the fashion industry, perhaps explaining her adoration for good style. As first lady, she loved sporting large and colorful neck scarves, as well as bright and bold gowns that were nipped at the waist and had dramatic necklines and slit hems. In true 70s fashion, she also wore many caftans and capes and attire featuring the on-trend plaid and checkered patterns.

Rosalynn Carter had little interest in clothes, and she made that clear when she wore a vintage dress to her husband's inaugural ball. Still, though, the American people were obsessed with her fashion choices. A Washington Post article from 1977 explains that Jimmy Carter's wife had a low-key and "non-flamboyent style." Being that she came from a religious background, she opted for designs that covered her (think: high necklines and long sleeves). As the years went on, she dabbled with more color and wore eveningwear that consisted of separate dresses and blouses.

Being that she was previously an actress, Nancy Reagan knew a thing or two about glitz and glamourand in the White House, she truly flourished. She loved lavish ballgowns from high-end designers, but she was especially a sucker for suits, with small, square shoulders and ornate piping, and chunky gold necklaces. Her signature hue was dubbed "Reagan Red," and has led many to believe that's why it's the official color of the Republican party.

It was hard to follow someone as fashion-forward as Nancy Reagan, but Barbara Bush made it clear she knew thatand didn't care. According to a Vanity Fair article, during George H. W. Bush's inauguration week, she reportedly made a dig at her predecessor's fancy style, joking: "Please noticehairdo, makeup, designer dress. Look at me good this week, because its the only week." But despite her self-deprecating humor, Barbara paid attention to what she wore. She loved royal blue (later called "Bush Blue") and pearl earrings, preferred jacketed suits with matching skirts, and avoided wearing anything that drew attention from her husband or gave him a bad image.

Before there was Blair Waldorf, there was Hillary Clinton. She was the one who arguably trend-setted headbands during the 90s. It even earned the title of the "Hillary Headband." She was also very fond of tailored suits: throughout Bill Clinton's presidency, Hillary favored blazers and matching pants in bright hues, which has since now become known as her signature style.

Clean lines, conservative, and simplethat's what Laura Bush went for during her eight years as first lady. Like Hillary Clinton before her, she often wore slim and tailored suits for public events. But Laura also loved herself a glam moment: for many state dinners and both of George Bush's inaugural balls, she stunned in lavish, form-fitting gowns that looked incredibly flattering on her.

Michelle Obama was a fashion risktaker as first lady. She wasn't afraid of wearing bold prints and modern designs that previous first ladies wouldn't go near, nor was she afraid of making a political statement through her clothes. She frequently wore the color purple as a sign of bipartisanship and championed American designers, such as Jason Wu, Ralph Lauren, and Jonathan Simkhai. Michelle made a conscious effort to support affordable brands, too: her go-to was J. Crew, which she first wore on The Ellen Show during Barack Obama's 2008 campaign.

From the get-go, Melania Trump's fashion choices were marred by controversy. When Donald Trump was elected, several designersfrom Tom Ford and Marc Jacobsrefused to dress her. And who can forget that controversial "I Really Don't Care" jacket she wore to visit immigrants? But despite it all, the former model made the most of her time as first lady, ditching her revealing necklines for sharp silhouettes and luxe accessories. During her four years in the role, she particularly loved trench dresses and Birkin bags.

Since she's become the first lady, Dr. Jill Biden has been at the top of her fashion game. She frequently makes appearances in sophisticated dresses in bright hues and eye-catching patterns many of which were created by American designersand is seemingly committed to supporting sustainability. In the last two years, she has stepped out wearing the same dresses on numerous occasions, including this Oscar de la Renta number.

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"A Prayer For The Ukrainians" Single Cover

ATLANTA (PRWEB) April 15, 2022

Ojeda Penn is no stranger to voicing his feelings through his music when it comes to socially conscious awareness. His voice comes through his fingers reaching for the heart that hears its understanding for change. A Prayer for the Ukrainians is a testament of heart that we all can relate to and join in together as we witness the demise of a country so loved, says Jaijai Jackson of the Not Just Jazz Network.

Ojeda Penn has been a pioneer as a socially conscious artist who believes in addressing social change through his music. With compositions such as "Martin and Malcolm", "Matthews and Collette", "Feelings From A Far", "Trayvon's Lament", "Je Suis Charlie", there is no wonder as to why he would pen a prayer for the distressed families and soldiers fighting for their democracy in Ukraine. His video World Peace goes hand-in-hand complementing the hearts-cry for peace and unity.

I wrote and recited the Prayer for the Ukrainians for the brave Ukrainian people because I admire people who put their bodies in harms way for their beliefs. Also, the Ukrainians are fighting for democracy like we are in America says Ojeda.

Penn continues to create new and inspiring music for the masses showing his evolution as an artist. He has combined other genres of music with Jazz including blues, funk, reggae, rap, and now hip-hop. With J-Hop he is combining jazz instrumentation, melodies and solos over-beats with known hip-hop elements. He was the first artist to record a rap song on the horrors of Apartied titled, "South Africa in the eighties.

He has always stroved to evolve as an artist and continues to do so while delivering his own concepts and style of music. His warm harmonies and progressions can remind you of Earth, Wind, and Fire. He has also been compared to Herbie Hancock and McCoy Tyner by others and humbly welcomes the comparison. Having his own voice, style, and sound, he continues to be inspired by life itself. His quest is to feel that safe place within when he puts his fingertips to those keys.

My music defines me as a human being. Music tells me who I am, and how I should feel about myself. Music centers me and affords me a much-needed vehicle to express my very personal feelings in an arena where its safe states Penn.

Once again, he creates music that is intended to inspire us all to be better people and to exude more compassion. The warmth of his music helps to deliver a musical message of love and harmony.

Enjoy Ojedas feature on the Not Just Jazz Network at http://notjustjazznetwork.com and be sure to check out his new website at http://ojedapennexperience.com to purchase A Prayer for the Ukrainians and to learn more.

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On the Not Just Jazz Network: Pianist Ojeda Penn launches a new website with his new single A Prayer for the Ukrainians a socially conscious piece...

April 18, 2022 Company News

2 years from the launch of Visual GPS, iStocks creative insights platform, research shows an evolution of consumer commitment towards having a sustainable lifestyle

New York April 18, 2022: Ahead of International Earth Day, iStock, a leading ecommerce platform providing premium visual content to SMBs, SMEs, creatives and students everywhere, has released research revealing that 93% of people surveyed are personally practicing sustainability, this number peaked in the Spring of 2021 (at 95%), when governments from over 30 countries pledged to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 2030 at the 2021 Leaders Climate Summit, organized by US President Joe Bidens administration.

For the past two years, iStocks creative insights platform Visual GPS, a trusted source of visual guidance within the creative community, captured findings that indicated a level of consistency in peoples commitment towards living a sustainable lifestyle, showing percentages above 90% since the summer of 2020 to 2021. The research has captured the consumer sentiment of over 10,000 individuals around the globe every four months since November 2019.

When breaking down what this commitment looks like, results showed recycling is still considered the most prominent way for consumers to make a positive impact on the planet (66%), followed by reusing, repairing, buying second-hand, using eco-friendly products, and making their homes energy efficient (44%). The lowest interest is on stopping the use of single-use products and making transport choices that reduce the use of gasoline/petrol/diesel (34%). Only a few (11%) suggested joining associations or advocacy groups or donating to causes or charities that support sustainability and the environment as a way to show support and commitment to protecting the planet.

However, while people increasingly believe theyve madepersonal progress towards living a more sustainable lifestyle, two thirds (66%)say their government could be doing more to combat climate change, with onlyone-third (34%) confident that their government is doing everything in theirpower; 73% believe businesses should take the lead if the government fails to.

After the launch of Visual GPS two years ago, we have learned that consumersare expecting businesses of all sizes to take responsibility for improvingclimate conditions, said Dr. Rebecca Swift, GlobalHead of Creative Insights at iStock.Our research also shows while consumers arecarrying out some positive actions in their day-to-day lives, they still lackunderstanding of how such important issues like climate change, impact theirdaily lives. This represents an opportunity for smallbusinesses and entrepreneurs to show their communities how they are committed to sustainability, how they can supporttheir customers be more sustainable via their offerings and demonstrate the benefits of having a more sustainablelifestyle.

To support businesses communicatearound sustainability across their marketing channels, iStocks visual expertshave shared three takeaways to keep in mind:

Rethink representations of sustainability: once symbolized by polar bears, solar panels, and icebergs, sustainable imagery is now evolving to include new visuals that feel more impactful for the modern consumer. Although well-known sustainable imagery still proves popular, its a good idea to also include visuals that arent as obviously tied to the sustainability movement, but still signify it for your more discerning customers.

Make conscious, eco-friendly choices: research says 79% of consumers are actively trying to reduce the amount of plastic they use and 53% of them only buy from brands that make an effort to be eco-friendly. Make sure youre meeting modern standards of sustainability by rethinking how you choose images and videos for every project. Include details such as reusable to-go cups or metal straws to convey your commitment to sustainability and show that youre taking a thoughtful approach in your environmental efforts.

Help consumers overcome present-day fears by visualizing a sustainable future: although 46% of consumers know that they should care more about the environment, that feeling is trumped by convenience. By using aspirational and future-facing imagery, you can support their sustainable efforts and make them feel like they can make a positive impact on the world. Show a wide range of visuals that portray environmentally aware choices, ranging from small lifestyle changes to industries investing in new, innovative technologies and initiatives thatll lead to sustainability on a large scale. Consumers are twice as likely to agree that a brand is committed to sustainability if they show how people are working and doing their part towards creating a more sustainable future.

For some visual inspiration for representing sustainability, visit here and to explore more sustainability-inspired imagery and video, visithttps://www.istockphoto.com/.

Image credit: blackCAT/iStock

iStockVisual GPS

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New Global iStock Research Finds Overwhelming Shift Towards More Sustainable Consumer Sustainability Practices - Getty Images Press Room

Changing palettes, new formats of retail and evolving gen-z and millennial values can only mean one thing the evolution of shopping as we know it. Vogue chats with the new wave of Indian fashion-tech entrepreneurs that are on a mission to build businesses that are planet-friendly, community-first and tech-enabled.

If youve spotted this season's bags on several cool girls in London, theyre likely loyal consumers of By Rotation, or proud rotators as theyd call themselves. Founded in 2019, and recently the recipient of a $3M seed Funding, By Rotations Eshita Kabra is laser focused on scaling. By Rotation is a leading social fashion rental app in the UK and globally, eventually that is changing the way we consume fashion by enabling the sharing of wardrobes. With their core values grounded in sustainability and community, the users are making conscious choices for their wallet, their wardrobes and the planet.

After researching the global fashion rental landscape and discovering the impacts of textile waste in her homeland of Rajasthan in India, Kabra set out to create a self-sustaining community of fashion lovers who could rotate what they owned with each other. Community is at the heart of By Rotation and we love watching it grow. As the app is peer to peer, there would be no By Rotation without our loyal and supportive community who are constantly sharing, rotating and listing their wardrobes.

We are a purely digital P2P platform and very tech-first fashion rental app, having invested considerably in our technology which has solid in-house expertise in machine learning and development. The beauty of this is the ability to speak directly to other fashion aficionados about their items, discuss the sizing and fit, and being able to follow them and keep up to date with their newest listings.

Taking By Rotation global and becoming a household name for sharing fashion. Wed love to have local communities in every corner of the world, and enable them to self-sufficiently rotate their wardrobes amongst each other.

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3 Indian fashion-tech entrepreneurs you need to know | Vogue India - VOGUE India