Since it seems that we will indeed have spring and perhaps summer to follow, Ive moved into my pre-gardening mode, which means sessions of water aerobics with frequent stops at Nicholes Fine Pastry to refuel. Going there always lifts my spirits, whether its for a croissant and cafe au lait or one of their delicious lunches or for a truly fine pastry to take home.

At a recent stop for sustenance at Nicholes, 13 8th St. S. in Fargo, I had my first taste of panna cotta, an Italian custard made with cream and flavorings, with gelatin added to set it up.

Of course I chose the chocolate version first and then sampled the divine lavender edition and then decided to make it at home.

I found a recipe online and proceeded. It called for some milk along with more than a quart of heavy cream, sugar and gelatin, but only a few tablespoons of good cocoa powder.

When that didnt combine smoothly or look very chocolaty, I added a good-sized handful of Ghirardelli bittersweet chocolate chips, stirred and strained it into a large souffl dish to rest before refrigerating. Fortunately, the man in my life didnt like it, so I got to eat the whole bowl.

When I stopped at Nicholes to see how many kinds they made, I was told there were at least 20 versions plus maybe 10 more created by someone in the kitchen as the spirit moved him or her.

Panna cotta is a wonderful substance for creativity, as the cream, when its cooking, may be infused with herbs such as lavender, rosemary, mint, lemon verbena, scented geraniams or the zest from lemons and oranges, grated ginger root or instant espresso. And a garnish of fresh fruit is always tasty.

As for the way panna cotta is served, I just used a bowl because I dont like unmolding things and the only oil I have in my kitchen is from olives. I dont use oil spray in a can.

But if I was going to make it for guests, Id pour individual servings into stemmed wine glasses, which dont have to be unmolded.

And Ill keep sampling the various kinds of panna cotta at Nicholes.

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Halgrimson: Panna cotta makes for creamy dessert with flavor options